Another pop up restaurant that popped up and has stayed for a very good reason, the Bonnie Gull is simply delightful. Tucked away on a corner of Foley St in Fitzrovia, it wouldn't look out of place on the streets of Fowey or Padstow (quaint Cornish villages for those who haven't had the pleasure of a visit).
With a tiny dining room, booking is a must (but I visited for a birthday treat so we'd planned ahead). Because it's so tiny, it's both busy and buzzy and warm and inviting – you genuinely feel like you've popped around a friend's place for dinner. Hmm, maybe a friend who loves seaside memorabilia, as you're surrounded by ropes, wood cladding, driftwood and fish, wonderful fish!
The menu is understandably seasonal so may differ from our visit, but to give you a taster we sampled a frito misto of monkfish cheeks, Hayle squid and queen scallops with malt vinegar mayonnaise, an Inverawe smoked mackerel & horseradish pâté and a citrus cured Cornish sea trout tartar, with mustard dressing, apple, fennel and keta caviar. The tartar was by far the most impressive; so fresh and such subtle flavours.
To follow I tucked in to day boat Looe monkfish with girolles, courgettes and smoked anchovy butter. I can honestly say at this point that I can't remember what my fellow diners had because I was simply lost in my plate of food. Just how it should be.
Price point: cheap as chips – still OK – getting pricier –
pricey – super fancy, but worth it!
bonniegull.com/seafood-shack/fitzrovia/ — @BonnieGull
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